SKY LAKES WILDERNESS

Let us permit nature to have her way; she understands her business better than we do. - Michael de Montaigne (1533 - 1592)

Sky Lakes Wilderness, designated by Congress in 1984, is a land of lakes, rocky ridges, and timbered slopes.

Sky Lakes Wilderness (113,590 acres) straddles southern Oregon's Cascade Range from Crater Lake National Park southward to Highway 140. It is approximately six miles wide and twenty-seven miles long, with elevations ranging from 3,800 feet in the canyon of the Middle Fork of the Rogue River, to a lofty 9,495 feet at the top of Mount McLoughlin.

More than 200 pools of water, from mere ponds to lakes of 30 to 40 acres, dot the landscape. Fourmile Lake, near the southern end of the area exceeds 900 acres.

The lake basins can sometimes be crowded with other campers, but the Wilderness has thousands of acres of forest and scenic ridges where the visitor can find solitude.

Special Rules

Geology

In terms of geologic time, the Sky Lakes Wilderness is quite young. Its volcanic and glacial history is clearly written in landforms as well as rocks and soil.

Geologic studies indicate that the earliest rocks in this part of the High Cascades began forming when a chain of volcanoes erupted between five and three million years ago. During the "Ice Age," the composite volcanoes of Mount Mazama and Mount McLoughlin began their initial build-up less than one million years ago. Just south of Sky Lakes, Brown Mountain produced its extensive lava field as late as 20,000 to 15,000 years ago, and the last eruption of Mt. McLoughlin took place around the same time.

On their north and east slopes, Mt. McLoughlin and other peaks bear the scars of glacial ice. Like most other major drainages within Sky Lakes Wilderness, Seven Lakes Basin and the deep canyon of the Rogue River's Middle Fork were carved by the massive ice fields which covered the highest elevations of the Cascades.

With the onset of warmer climate, local glaciers virtually disappeared by 12,000 years ago. Volcanic activity was not yet over, however. Minor lava eruptions and mud-flows occurred at places like Big Bunchgrass Butte and Imagination Peak. A chain of cinder cones, extending from Goosenest Mountain north to present-day Crater Lake National Park, also formed during the post-glacial period. The most recent--and by far the most catastrophic--geologic event happened about 6,700 years ago, when Mt. Mazama exploded and collapsed, forming the caldera of Crater Lake. Some of the vast amount of rock and ash which was thrown into the air landed in the northern portion of Sky Lakes Wilderness, creating the pumice-covered "Oregon Desert."

Although forests now carpet much of its terrain, Sky Lakes Wilderness retains its character as a land derived from "fire and ice."

Vegetation

On the timbered slopes are found many species of trees and smaller plants. Nearly two dozen tree species exist, ranging from the Pacific yew in the lowlands to the mountain hemlock and subalpine fir in the higher places. Lodgepole pine is commonly found, but is in its element in the Oregon Desert. Whitebark pine, an uncommon tree in Sky Lakes, may be found high on the slopes of Mt. McLoughlin. Shasta red fir dominates much of the Wilderness.

Numerous shrubs, ground-covering plants, and wildflowers occur in Sky Lakes. Special attention should be paid to the prostrate juniper and heather in the rocks above Margurette Lake, the brilliant columbine amid the talus rock of Lucifer, and the kinnikinnick and huckleberry found in many places throughout the wilderness.

Wildlife

You may encounter any of the wild creatures common to the Cascade Range as you travel Sky Lakes. You may see chipmunks, a family of deer, or even a herd of elk. Possibly a black bear will visit your camp or a coyote will fill your night with his lonely music. Uncommon animals in the area include the yellow-bellied marmot, the fisher, and the pine marten. Often heard (but rarely seen) among the rocks of talus slopes is the tiny pika.

Eagles and other large hawks may be seen as they pass through. Goshawks live and hunt under the tree canopy. The area provides them with an excellent environment in which to nest and rear their young.

Climate

Summers at this latitude tend to be warm and dry, while winters at this high elevation are bitterly cold and produce a heavy snow layer. The snows often prevent free access through the area until mid-July. On protected north slopes on Mt. McLoughlin and Devils Peak snow may persist to the end of summer.

Except for an occasional summer thunderstorm, there is normally little moisture from June to October.

The fragility of plants and soils is directly related to the climatic patterns. The growing season between the thaw and the drought is extremely short.

History

Beginning several thousand years ago Native American groups--ancestors of the Klamath and the Takelma Indians--hunted game and gathered huckleberries within the Sky Lakes area. Klamath youths would sometimes come to make their "vision quest" (a religious experience during which one fasted in solitude and sought a spiritual vision while dreaming) on high peaks along the Cascade crest. However, the short season of mild weather and the limited variety of food plants and animals did not encourage prehistoric visitors to stay long.

The early white settlers also made use of the Sky Lakes--hunting, trapping beaver or marten in the winter, grazing their stock (in the early days, large herds of sheep) in the high meadows during the warm months. Settlers from lower-elevation communities came each August to pick huckleberries at places like Stuart Falls and Twin Ponds. After 1906 the newly established Forest Service built trails and fire lookouts within the Sky Lakes area. By mid-1970s, a new Pacific Crest Trail route replaced the original Oregon Skyline Trail of a half-century earlier.

Points of Historical Interest. The Sky Lakes Wilderness contains evidence of use by previous visitors--from the stone tools of prehistoric Indians to 20th century cabins and shelters. These cultural resources are protected by law for public enjoyment and education; please do not remove, disturb or destroy these gifts from the past.

The Twin Ponds Trail follows the route of the old Rancheria Trail, an Indian travel route. In 1863, it was widened and used as a military wagon road between Jacksonville and Fort Klamath. This portion of the Rancheria Trail is listed on the Nation; Register of Historic Places; many segments of the old wagon route are visible to the discerning eye along the Twin Ponds Trail.

At the southeast end of Island Lake is the Waldo Tree. This inscribed Shasta red fir bears the carved names of early-day Oregon conservationist Judge John B. Waldo and four companions. In 1888, these men journeyed south along the crest of the Cascades, from Waldo Lake to Mt. Shasta, the first recorded party to travel much of the general route of what is now the Pacific Crest Trail.

Pacific Crest Trail

Hikers and horsemen will find a well constructed, well maintained Pacific Crest Trail winding along 35 miles of the summit of the Cascade Range through the Sky Lakes Wilderness. A trailhead on Highway 140, a mile east of Fish Lake, is the southern entrance point. The trail passes through lake basins and over ridges on its way north, where it crosses into Crater Lake National Park. The Pacific Crest Trail may be reached from other locations by way of the many other trails that enter the Sky Lakes Wilderness.

Maps of the Pacific Crest Trail through Oregon are available at Forest Service offices.

Planning Your Trip

A hiker in good condition will average a maximum of 10-15 miles per day. Those not used to hiking should not plan on more than 5 to 10 miles.

There are no stores along the way from Fish Lake or Lake of the Woods resorts to Crater Lake Lodge. Side trips to supply points in Butte Falls, Rocky Point, Prospect, or Fort Klamath are not considered reasonable unless you have a vehicle at the trailhead.

Don't plan to live off the land. Survival foods do not exist in abundance. Berries are seasonal. Fishing can be poor much of the season. (Oregon fishing licenses are required.)

Permits and Fires

No permit is required provided that your group totals less than 8 people and 12 horses and pack animals. Remember that large groups are not compatible with the No Trace ethic and can be destructive without intending to be. A group of eight, for example, would often have to split into two groups of four to avoid damage to vegetation surrounding a potential campsite.

Normally, you will not need a campfire permit. However, during unseasonably dry weather, campfires have in the past been prohibited. Keep your firepit small and take it apart when you leave. Scatter the cold ashes away from the campsite. It is possible to leave no sign of your fire. Firewood is scarce around many of the most popular lakes. A light-weight gas or propane stove of the backpacking variety is a handy item.

Motorized Use

Motor vehicles and motorized equipment such as chainsaws are not allowed. Also, mountain bikes are prohibited.

Camping

There are no developed or improved campsites in Sky Lakes. Remember that camping is not allowed within 100' of any lake or pond. Older camp spots from years past can be seen very close to lake shores. Do not be tempted to use these. Over time it is hoped that vegetation can be restored on these sites so that the shores of popular spots do not become deserts.

Wilderness Rangers

Wilderness rangers patrol the Sky Lakes area daily. Their job is to help visitors to understand the unique problems which increasing recreational use brings to our wildlands. They also love to swap stories about the wildlife and history of the area. They do not enjoy having to enforce rules which exist for the common good.

Fishing

Many of the nearly 200 lakes in the area are shallow and do not support fish, but the deeper lakes may have some brook trout. A few lakes may have rainbow trout. The South and Middle forks of the Rogue River and Red Blanket Creek also provide fishing. An Oregon State fishing license is required.

Hunting

General hunting seasons are in accordance with the Oregon State Fish and Game Department regulations. Oregon hunting licenses and appropriate game tags can be obtained at most sporting goods stores in Oregon. Outside of hunting season, firearms are permitted, but discharging them is discouraged due to the obvious nuisance effect created where peace and tranquility are the expectations of users.

Stock

There are few meadows and very little grazing in the lake basins. We recommend from 12 to 18 pounds of pellets per head per day. To protect lakeshore vegetation, pasturing or tethering of stock within 200' of any lake is prohibited. Tie horses to a hitchline strung high enough between two trees to allow them to pass under. Set up you hitchline where damage to vegetation will not occur. A shovel may be used to scatter manure and keep flies down.

Pests

Rattlesnakes are not known to occur in Sky Lakes. Mosquitoes can be very bad through midsummer. Bears are only rarely a problem. There is no poison oak or ivy.

Wildflowers

Depending on conditions from year to year, the most spectacular wildflower displays occur in July or early August. The best huckleberry picking is in late August.

Rock Climbing

Rock climbing is not considered an attraction in Sky Lakes.

Emergency Considerations

- There are not established search and rescue organizations in the vicinity. Forest Service patrols may be encountered anywhere in the area, but they cannot be located at any fixed stations.

- Sky Lakes visitors need to rely on themselves and each other in case of need. Getting the word to the Forest Service or Sheriff's Office may take many hours even in the most dire emergencies.

Carry protective clothing and shelter

The climate from July through September is mostly mild with clear skies. Temperatures normally range between 30 and 80 degrees. However, frosty mornings can be expected. Rain, or even snow, may occur during any month of the year.

Thunderstorms are common, occurring throughout the season, usually in cycles lasting several days. They occur most often during late afternoon or evening hours. Avoid exposed places during a storm.

A warm jacket and a light tent will help make any trip more comfortable. They become necessary during bad weather.

During high winds beware of falling limbs and trees. It is unsafe to camp near snags.

Carry Water

Water may be scarce in some places, especially along the ridges. Carry enough water for a day's needs plus a small reserve for emergencies.

Warning

Open water sources are easily contaminated by human or animal waste. Water from springs, lakes, ponds, and streams should not be drunk without proper treatment. A recommended method of treatment is to bring water to a rolling boil for 5 minutes.

Avoid Pesky Insects and Other Critters

Mosquitoes, gnats, or blackflies may be expected from snowmelt time in early season to the first cold nights of fall. Yellowjackets or wasps may be encountered anywhere in the forest.

If you camp away from rotten logs, you shouldn't have problems with scorpions or spiders. Check your clothing for ticks after going through dense brush.

Rattlesnakes are not know to occur in Sky Lakes.

Wild animals are not considered a problem. The black bear may be an exception if invited by messy camping habits.