Sea Kayaking

Misty Fjords National Monument Wilderness

Location: Revillagigedo is a 1,134-square-mile island at the southern end of the Alexander Archipelago in Southeast Alaska. The town of Ketchikan (pop. 14,000) and the community of Saxman are the only cities on the island. The island is located in the Tongass National Forest, the largest national forest in the United States. The Tongass comprises the northernmost reaches of the Pacific Northwest temperate rainforest; rainfall in Ketchikan averages 156" per year. Much of this forest is old-growth and comprised of Sitka spruce, western hemlock, and red cedar. The forest is interspersed with a variety of other habitats, including muskegs, saltwater estuaries, rocky beaches, and alpine meadows. The eastern coast of Revillagigedo lies within Misty Fjords National Monument Wilderness.

Description: The distance around Revillagigedo Island is approximately 150 miles. In addition to the circumnavigation itself, there are many opportunities for side trips into majestic river valleys, steep granite fjords, and dense old-growth forests. The potential for wildlife viewing is excellent. You may see brown and black bears, wolves, mountain goats, harbor seals, sea lions, Dall porpoise, orcas, humpback whales, river otters, martens, beavers, Sitka black-tail deer, bald eagles, and many types of waterfowl and forest birds.

Planning your Trip: Before departure, obtain detailed maps and charts of the area, prepare a trip itinerary, and identify points of interest and possible campsites. Look for sheltered coves to use as emergency stops should you encounter unexpected changes in weather and/or sea conditions. Maps of Misty Fjords National Monument Wilderness can be purchased at the Forest Service District Office and the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center, both located in Ketchikan.

A list of potential campsites, stopping points, scenic highlights, and recreational opportunities is included here. It is described as a trip departing south out of Ketchikan. You could travel the opposite direction, departing north -- but it is better to begin by heading south. The conditions at Point Alava (see below) can be unpredictable and rough, and it is nice to be past this spot early in your trip.

Trip Time: Generally, people take 10-20 days to complete this trip; the average trip time is probably 14 days. Plan extra days for unpredictable and rapidly changing weather conditions such as heavy rain, wind, fog, and rough seas.

Weather: The weather can change dramatically within a short period of time. Be ready for anything, including mist, rain, high winds, and sun. Wind direction can also change dramatically when entering a fjord or coming around points. Rain gear, a durable tent, and extra dry clothes are necessities for this trip.

Forest Service Cabins, Shelters, and Trails: The Forest Service maintains several cabins and shelters in the area; many of them are noted below. The three-sided Adirondack shelters are available on a first-come, first-serve basis. Cabins may be reserved by calling 1-877-444-6777 (toll-free) or via the internet at http://www.reserveusa.com; they range in price from $25 - $45/night. There are outhouses at all the cabins and at Nooya, Punchbowl, and Winstanley shelters. There are also several trails throughout the area; many are located adjacent to cabins or shelters.

There are separate Recreation Opportunity Guides available for each cabin and trail. Review these for specific information about any locations you would like to visit.

Water : There are fresh water sources near all the recommended campsites, unless otherwise noted. Boil, filter, or treat all fresh water before use. Giardia can be anywhere, so take precautions with all water you use for consumption.

Bear Safety: Southeast Alaska is heavily populated with brown and black bears. Always maintain a clean camp, especially when cooking. Cook at least 200 ft. away from your tent, preferably on the beach below mean high tide. Hang all food, garbage, and odorous items in a tree well away from camp (including any fragrant hygiene products). Make noise while hiking in bear country and when approaching your campsite.

Leave-no-Trace Camping: There are many steps you can take to minimize the impact of your presence in natural areas. In general, when you leave a campsite, there should be no evidence that you were there. Concentrate impacts in higher-use areas, such as established campsites, or on beaches, where the tide will erase the signs of camping. Use fuel stoves for cooking, and build fires only in the designated pits at shelters and cabins. All garbage disposal must adhere to the "pack it in, pack it out" philosophy. A little preplanning can help minimize trash -- for example, you can repackage your food in ziploc bags. Another aspect of leave-no-trace camping is using natural materials instead of toilet paper; there's nothing to pack out, and you'll have a wide selection of mosses and leaves to choose from! Respect wildlife and maintain safe, unobtrusive distances from any animals you encounter. Remember to camp at least 200 feet away from all fresh water sources.

With just a little effort you can help preserve these areas in their natural state!

Hypothermia: The waters of southeast Alaska are very cold -- they average less than 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Within minutes of exposure, you begin to lose muscle coordination, and after 15 minutes you may not survive. Be prepared and know self-rescue techniques. If you capsize, get to shore and into dry clothing as quickly as possible.

Behm Canal: While it looks narrow on a map, Behm Canal is a large body of water, and any crossings should be considered as potentially dangerous. This is especially true for the East Behm/Misty Fjords area, where the Behm is up to 6 miles wide. Be sure to consider tides, wind, rain, chop, and general weather outlook when planning to cross. Cross at the narrowest point possible and try to paddle straight across, rather than at an angle -- this minimizes your time in the open waters. Islands can also make the crossing safer. The New Eddystone/Entrance Island area (near Rudyerd and Ella Bays) has several islands that can serve as emergency stops should weather conditions worsen during your crossing.

As a general rule, don't cross the Behm unless you have to. To camp at every stop listed below would entail several Behm crossings; this is not recommended. This list is intended to serve only as a guide, to illustrate potential campsites and trip stops. For example, if you are at Rudyerd Bay, it is safer to paddle straight up the mainland coast to Walker Cove rather than cross to camp at Manzanita Bay and then cross back again. When planning your trip, consider your options and design an itinerary that suits your desires and encompasses the fewest crossings possible.

Potential Stopping Points & Campsites (map)

Location Key:

(M) = Mainland (R) = Revillagigedo Island (I) = Other island

Icehouse Cove is an easy day paddle from downtown Ketchikan. It is located just south of Carroll Point, across Carroll Inlet from the Mountain Point. From saltwater you can hike the Black Mountain Trail, a 1.2 mile hike through muskeg. Note: Much of this trail is in poor condition. (R)

Coho Cove offers great beach areas for low-impact camping. There are also several potential sites along the shore north of the cove and on the eastern side of Bold Island. Note: The only fresh water source on Bold Island is a creek on the northeastern side of the island. (R)

Moth Bay has a good beach for camping and islands to explore. Note: There are no freshwater streams in the bay. (R)

Lucky Cove has a sandy beach for a low-impact campsite. (R)

Alava Bay has a F.S. cabin, and the beach offers great camping. This area is notorious for rough water conditions. It can be tricky to navigate in a kayak due to the tides, merging currents, and exposure to open ocean waters. (R)

Rudyerd Island has a sheltered cove on the NW side. There is no good camping available, but it can provide shelter from adverse weather. (I)

Princess Bay has long rocky beaches with sheltered, forested camping spots. It is a large bay, with a good deal of shoreline to explore. (R)

Wasp Cove is located directly across the Behm from Winstanley Island. It is a small cove with decent beaches for camping -- a good place to keep in mind for a stop caused by bad weather or other unexpected situations. (R)

Winstanley Island has a F.S. cabin on the northeast end. There are nice but rocky beaches in Shoalwater Pass and a 2.25-mi. trail to Winstanley lake about 3 miles from the cabin (on the mainland). The trail ends at a three-sided shelter, where there is a skiff. There is a F.S. cabin across the lake. This is good spot for freshwater fishing. On the west side of Winstanley Island is a barge facility that serves as a base for Forest Service field crews working in Misty Fjords. (I)

Checats Cove is approx. 3 miles north of Winstanley Island cabin. There is good camping in the forest on the north shore, and at low tide you can explore basalt formations carved out by the water. Across the cove, near the creek, is a 1 mi. trail leading to Lower Checats Lake. There is no skiff available, but it is a nice place for swimming. (M)

New Eddystone Rock is a 237-foot-high volcanic plug rising straight out of the Behm Canal. It is visible for many miles. At low tide you can see the 1.5 mile-wide shoal at its base. There are over 200 species of plants on the island and many species of birds. There is a small basalt cave to explore. Stop here for lunch or, if you are daring, try camping on the northwest side of the island (be sure to check the tide book -- don't try this during the higher high tides of the month). There is no freshwater source at this site. (I)

Ella Bay has a nice beach with a narrow, sandy area good for camping. There is a 2.5 mi. trail to Lower Ella Lake. This trail follows a fairly shallow grade and is an easy hike (there is only one short climb near the beginning). The lake has grassy shorelines and is a great place to swim on a warm day. (M)

Rudyerd Bay is the most dramatic fjord in Misty. It has sheer granite cliffs over 3000 ft. high. Punchbowl Cove is a popular destination due to its incredible scenery and many recreational opportunities. There are many areas along the shoreline for camping, including a large, often-used area at the head of the cove. This site is not far from the creek and trailhead. Punchbowl Trail is approx. 1 mi. long and climbs quickly to Punchbowl Lake. The views here are as spectacular as in the cove. There is a three-sided shelter at the lake, as well as a skiff. There is good freshwater fishing here, and Punchbowl Creek has a salmon run during mid- to late summer. Punchbowl is the most popular area in Misty Fjords and a must-see stop on any trip. It also serves as a good base camp for exploring the rest of Rudyerd Bay on day trips. Nooya Trail is just under one mile long and leads from an estuary to Nooya Lake -- another spot with fantastic glacial scenery. There is a three-sided shelter on the lake; you must use the skiff to get to it. Note: Nooya estuary is heavily populated with brown bears -- camping there is not recommended. Be sure to exercise bear precautions while hiking in this area. (M)

Manzanita Bay is a large, shallow bay with a great sandy beach and a three-sided shelter. Low tide exposes many sand bars, allowing you to walk nearly all the way across the bay. The view from the shelter is of the steep granite ridges lining the eastern shores of the Behm Canal. Manzanita Trail is a 3 mi. hike that passes through forest and muskeg as it leads to Manzanita Lake (the last half of the trail needs maintenance, so hike carefully). There is a skiff at the top of the trail and two F.S. cabins at the far ends of the lake. This is one of the most beautiful places in Misty Fjords and provides "one-stop-shopping" for many recreational activities. Note: While the trailhead and freshwater creek are not accessible by foot from the shelter, they are only a couple of minutes' paddle away. (R)

Walker Cove, like Rudyerd Bay, has steep granite walls on either side. There are a few camp sites in the estuary at the head of the bay. There are no trails or cabins in this cove. (M)

Grace Cove is across the Behm from Walker Cove. There is great camping in the forest above the beach. Grace Creek is nearby, and there is a trail to Grace Lake. Note: This trail is not completely marked and is no longer maintained. (R)

Portage Cove is a protected cove with camping spots along the shore. It is located on Revillagigedo Island, across from the Chickamin River. (R)

Chickamin River is a worthwhile stop. Fish Pt. has large granite slabs and is a good place for a campsite. There are great views of the Behm Canal and the mountain peaks on the back side of Revillagigedo. The river is fed by the Chickamin Glacier and is a great place to explore. Please respect the privately-owned lands located in this area. (M)

Fitzgibbon Cove is a deep, protected, and forested cove which offers good campsites, especially in the area behind the islands. (M)

Klahini River Valley is a great place to camp with a protected beach. It is centrally for exploring Burroughs Bay and the Unuk river. (M)

Claude Point is located at the north end of Revillagigedo Island, just across from Anchor Pass. It provides a protected anchorage with a large grassy area for camping. There is a private cabin at this site. (R)

Anchor Pass is on the mainland just east of Bell Island. There is a F.S. cabin, as well as good beach spots for camping. (M)

Short Bay is just north of Bell Island. Reflection Lake Trail will take you 2.3 miles through the forest to the lake, where there is a F.S. shelter and a cabin. Note: This trail requires a stream crossing that is impassable when creek levels are high. (M)

Bailey Bay is located on the mainland, across the Behm Canal from the southwest end of Bell Island. Take a scenic hike on the Lake Shelokum trail (2 mi.) and be rewarded with hot springs at the top. There is a rustic shelter adjacent to the hot springs. Note: This trail is in poor shape, very difficult, and includes a stream crossing (impassable during high creek levels). (M)

Blind Pass is a narrow, forested passage with many small coves and beaches to explore. It is located between Hassler and Black Islands. You can reserve the F.S. cabin there, or find a campsite in the surrounding area. Note: The southwestern end of this pass can be impassable at low tides; check your tide book and plan accordingly (the northeastern outlet is always navigable). Yes Bay is located across the Behm from Hassler Island; there is a lodge there in case of emergency. (M)

Neets Bay is a large inlet that offers excellent opportunities for wildlife viewing. Campsites are limited, but there is an operating fish hatchery where you could go in case of emergency. (R)

Bushy Point is a protected cove which offers camping and a beach. It is located approx. 5 mi. north of Escape Pt. (R)

Margaret Bay is a small inlet off the southern shore of Traitor's Cove. There is a Forest Service dock and plenty of flat space for camping. You can walk 1 mi. down a logging road to the .25-mi. trail that leads to the Margaret Creek Wildlife Viewing Platform. There are plans to install informational bulletin boards at the trailhead and the dock during the summer of 1999. (R)

Escape Point is a good place to pull out for the night with a nice beach to camp on. It's 25 miles north of Ketchikan. (R)

Naha Bay offers an opportunity for a day hike on the Naha National Recreation Trail to either Jordan or Heckman Lakes (5.4 miles one way). There is a F.S. cabin on each lake. The river offers some of the best stream fishing in the Ketchikan area. Note: Beware of kayaking through Roosevelt Lagoon. While the narrow pass is navigable during a high slack tide, it can be very dangerous when the tide is moving. There is a tram for easy portaging of kayaks. (R)

Moser Bay is just south of Naha Bay and has well-protected waters. You can hike the 2.6 mile Wolf Lake Trail to the shelter on Upper Wolf Lake. Note: While this trail is scenic, it is difficult and requires a stream crossing between Lower and Upper Wolf Lakes. (R)

Stack Island is a small island at the mouth of Moser Bay and offers a large campsite in the forest and a great beach. Note: There is no fresh water at this site. (I)

Betton Island is near the northern end of Ketchikan (you can see town from the island). There are beautiful beaches for exploring and camping, and there is a half-mile trail on the northwest side of the island. It is a good day's paddle to downtown Ketchikan from here. (I)

Knudsen Cove is a boat harbor located across from Betton Island. If the weather is bad, you can pull out here and arrange for ground transportation. Note: There is no place to camp here. (R)

Downtown Ketchikan is 11 miles south of Knudsen Cove. Time to take a hot shower and ponder over the amazing adventure you've just had!

Updated January 15, 2002

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