The top of Montana....
(above) Climbers seeking the summit of Montana's highest mountain, Granite Peak (12,799 ft), often find friendly mountain goats along the trail. This male crosses the rocky moraine in front of Granite Peak, pictured in the background.
The Custer is home to 12,799 ft. Granite Peak, the tallest mountain in Montana. Granite Peak is located in the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, an arduous 21 to 25 mile trek (round trip) from either of three approaches. Granite Peak attracts hundreds of climbers each year, and is considered by many to be the toughest state high-point in the lower-48 states.	RECREATION INFO Granite Peak Water Safety Campgrounds Grasshopper Glacier
Granite Peak Climbing Information
Climbers are advised to check in with the Beartooth Ranger Station, 406-446-2103, before embarking on a climb to Granite Peak. This is an arduous 21 to 25 mile hike, only for experienced, well conditioned hikers and climbers. Both routes described have significant portions which are NOT on Forest Service trails. Please be aware if you are considering a climb to Granite Peak there is a risk of injury or death. Evacuation from the Granite Peak area is risky, costly, and dependent upon weather conditions. THE FOREST SERVICE ASSUMES NO LIABILITY FOR CLIMBERS ATTEMPTING GRANITE PEAK. It is advised that climbers check with their health insurance provider concerning coverage on backcountry rescue. The routes described below are not endorsed by the Custer National Forest. Please note that the area is designated as Wilderness. As always, please practice a Leave No Trace ethic when recreating on the Custer National Forest.
APPROACHES TO GRANITE PEAK: There are two trailheads from which embark for a trek to Granite Peak, West Rosebud and East Rosebud. West Rosebud is the most popular approach, slighter shorter, and gains less in elevation than the East Rosebud route. From the East Rosebud Trailhead, climbers can use the Phantom Creek Trail to reach Froze-to-Death Plateau, and the base of Tempest Mountain, a common spot used for basecamp. From the West Rosebud Trailhead, climbers can either reach the Froze-to-Death Plateau by traveling up Phantom Creek Trail where it meets Mystic Lake, or up the Huckleberry Creek drainage, located at the far western end of Mystic Lake. EAST ROSEBUD TRAILHEAD The East Rosebud Valley is one of the most scenic in the Beartooths, filled with lakes, streams and waterfalls. The trailhead has a campground, toilet facilities, and a large parking area where climbers can leave their vehicles. To reach the trailhead, take the Columbus exit from Interstate 90, and take Montana Highway 78 south 29 miles to Roscoe. From the north of Roscoe, the pavement runs out, and at approximately 7 miles crosses the East Rosebud Creek. After the bridge, take a right at the fork in the road, and continue another 7.5 miles to the East Rosebud trailhead (14.5 miles total from Roscoe). There are three trails at the East Rosebud trailhead. Follow trail #17, the Phantom Creek Trail, which begins on the west side of the road. This trail gains about 3,900 feet in just over 7 miles to the saddle between Prairie View Mountain and Froze to Death Mountain. This is the point of departure from Phantom Creek Trail #17 to the Froze-to-Death plateau approach to Granite Peak (see below for details on the Froze-to-Death Plateau route to basecamp).
WEST ROSEBUD TRAILHEAD The West Rosebud Trailhead is located approximately 80 miles southwest of Billings. To reach the trailhead, take the Columbus exit from Interstate 90, and take Montana Highway 78 through Absaroka and turn west (right) toward Fishtail (approximately 17 miles from Columbus).
From Fishtail, drive west and south for 1 mile, turn south (left) to the West Rosebud Road.	The West Rosebud Trailhead is the most popular starting spot for climbers attempting Granite Peak.
Watch for the sign for West Rosebud Lake, approximately 2 miles down the road, and turn left. Follow this rough and graveled road for 14 miles to the West Rosebud Trailhead, which is on the left. The trailhead has toilet facilities, and a parking area where climbers can leave their cars. The trail actually begins up the road about 200 yards, and is reached by walking through the Montana Power Company facilities where the trailhead is clearly marked with a Forest Service sign.
	A short way up Mystic Lake Trail #19 is this plaque, commissioned in memory of Mark E. Von Seggern, a Boy Scout from Columbus who died in a slide down a snowbank in 1979, near Mystic Lake.
From there, the trail leads toward Mystic Lake (7637 ft.), one of the most popular day hikes on the Custer National Forest. The trail is relatively flat for about the first two miles, leading to switchbacks that eventually bring the hiker to a point looking over Mystic Lake Dam. The total elevation gain is about 1,200 feet over 3 miles.
(right) Mystic Lake Dam is located about 3 miles up the trail from the West Rosebud trailhead. The lake provides excellent fishing, a good source of water (always purify water in the backcountry), and dispersed camping opportunities. The trail is just over 3 miles in length from the parking lot at the West Rosebud trailhead.
Routes to Granite Peak
There are basically two approaches to a suitable basecamp from which to launch a bid for the summit of Granite Peak; either across the subalpine meadows and boulder fields of Froze-to-Death Plateau (10,500 to 12,000 ft.) to the base of Tempest Mountain; or up the Huckleberry Creek drainage to the col between Tempest Mountain and Granite Peak, near Avalanche Lake (10,000 ft.). Opinions vary, but Huckleberry Creek seems to be the more treacherous route, requiring navigation across massive boulder fields which rise steeply toward the base of Granite Peak. However, the route up from Mystic Lake to the saddle between Froze-to-Death and Prairie View Mountains is also known as "The Switchbacks from Hell," (26 in all) by hikers familiar with the steep hike out of the Mystic Lake basin, which rises from 7637 foot Mystic Lake to the 10,000 foot saddle between the two mountains in less than three miles.
Froze-to-Death Plateau Whether coming from the East Rosebud side of Phantom Creek Trail, or from the west via Mystic Lake, the jumping off point from Phantom Creek Trail is the same: the saddle between Froze-to-Death and Prairie View Mountains (10,000 ft.). Anyone attempting either of these routes should ensure they have a copy of the USGS Granite Peak Quadrangle map.
	Froze-to-Death plateau is known for late afternoon storms, and the possibility of snow all year long. It is about a five mile hike from the Phantom Creek Trail to the base of Tempest Mountain, a common basecamp for climbers attempting Granite Peak.
Navigation across the plateau can be very difficult, even for experienced backcountry travelers. The proliferation of rock cairns across the plateau can make it very confusing for hikers. DO NOT RELY ON THE CAIRNS to find your way across Froze-to-Death Plateau. Route-finding and compass skills are ESSENTIAL for navigation across this route.
The basic route leads southwest from the saddle, around the north side of Froze-to-Death mountain. Although the plateau is relatively level, there is plenty of scrambling over glacial moraine, and depending on the time of year, ice fields which require crossing.
The goal of most climbers is an 11,600 area to the west of Tempest Mountain. There are a few relatively flat areas which are clear of boulders and make a suitable, if not particularly comfortable, basecamp.
This area is delicate Wilderness habitat, so please pay strict attention to minimum impact camping ethics.	Basecamp at 11,600 feet. Granite Peak is in the back left, about 1.5 miles by steep rocky trail from this area near Tempest Mountain.
From the Tempest Mountain basecamp, a climbing trail leads down the south side of Tempest to the col between Tempest and Granite. From here, one can see the climbing trail which leads up the knife-edged route toward the summit (for more information on the summit route, see below). Please note, it is a good idea to stock up on water, as availability on the Plateau is limited to run-off from snowfields. There is often no water to be found once near the col, or on the actual climbing trail.
Huckleberry Creek Drainage Another less commonly used route to Granite Peak is reached by hiking approximately two miles around the south shore of Mystic Lake, to the junction of Huckleberry Creek and Mystic Lake.
	The Huckleberry Creek route to the base of Granite Peak is a difficult hike, with spectacular scenery. The steep boulder fields make progress difficult during good conditions, and dangerous to impassable during times of precipitation, due to slick rocks. The route begins on the far west end of Mystic Lake, and threads up the canyon on the west side of Huckleberry Creek.
From there, climbers turn south (left), and head up the west side of Huckleberry Creek. This is by all accounts a very difficult trek, and climbers should be cautioned that the granite boulders which must be navigated become dangerously slick when wet. This situation is exacerbated by heavy packs, and the necessity to jump from boulder to boulder. As with the Froze-to-Death Plateau route, do NOT rely upon the cairns to route find. Although this route is easier to navigate because it basically follows Huckleberry Canyon, it still requires an intimate knowledge of orienteering skills. The Huckleberry Creek route winds for about 4 miles, from 7,637 foot Mystic Lake, to the 11,400 foot col between Tempest Mountain and Granite Peak, with several creek crossings, and much boulder hopping. About half-way up the route, at Princess Lake, climbers typically veer their route to the southeast toward Avalanche Lake. There are several small spots suitable for one or two backpack tents near the lake, and another small ledge just up from the col, toward Tempest Mountain. Any of these possible campsites offer access to the main climbing trail, which begins at the col. Please note, it is a good idea to stock up on water at Avalanche, or another lake on the way up, as availability near the col varies considerably with the season.
Historical Excerpts from Past Forest Service Climbs:

Historical Excerpt #1:

From notes by George Forney, Project Engineer, USGS, after his climb of August 19, 1953.

"Starting via horseback from East Rosebud lake, take the Phantom Creek Trail (#17) which begins just below the outlet of East Rosebud Lake.

Follow this trail west to the top of the plateau. (While some maps may show a trail to Granite Peak, it is faint, unmarked, and unmaintained).

From the top of the plateau on the Phantom Creek Trail, turn left and head Southwest, staying on the north side of the tops of the main ridge. Beware of soft spots that will bog down a horse.

Ride to the point where it is apparent that the plateau follows a north-south direction. Turn south, cross over the ridge. Ride down to the bottom of the swale where there is a small quantity of running water and a rectangular boulder standing about 3 feet above the ground. This is the only campsite available in the area. There is no wood or grazing in the area.

About 1500 feet south of this spot there is a small top, east of the main ridge. On foot, travel southwest, staying on the north and west sides of the small top, to the saddle on the main ridge (which is north of Mt. Tempest). You will see a small saddle in the first small ridge running west from Mt. Tempest. Go thru the saddle and continue on down to the low spot lying between Tempest and Granite. Cross to the south side of this saddle, and climb the first ridge coming into the main ridge from the south.

Any route to this ridge is acceptable. Near the junction of these ridges, cross to the west side and make a small drop in elevation to a snowbridge. Cross this snowbridge and bear left, on the south side, and return to the top of the main ridge as soon as possible. Here a passable route on the north face should be seen.

Follow this, and return to the tip of the main ridge as soon as possible. Both of these routes are short, and you should be back on the main ridge shortly after crossing the snow bridge.

Cross to the south side of the main ridge and work to a small V opening in the next ridge coming in form the south. There is route due west of this point to a similar V in the next ridge; it appears almost in trail form. Climb down to this V. You are now looking into the final face of the peak.

The next ridge west, which comes in from the south, goes to the top of the peak. It is a smooth-faced ridge with small crevices running from the bottom of the drain to the top of the ridge to the left (or south) of you. Near the top of this ridge and the peak, you will see a large boulder bridged across others on the ridge and a sky lined hole under it. Just left of this is a small crevice. Work along to the west to a quite large ledge, about 50 feet from the drain. On your right as you face the peak you will see a very narrow ledge formed by separation from the main face.

Follow this ledge and it gives way to a narrower one. Cross the second. (Both ledges are only 10-15 feet long). Then climb directly up the face. This is the steepest part of the climb, but can be made without ropes. Upon reaching the first good ledge, turn west and head for the crevice. Go up the crevice to the top of the ridge and you are about 20 feet below the top and about 100 feet south of the peak.

The rest is easy." (end of excerpt #1)

Historical Excerpt #2:

From a report by Beartooth District Ranger Hank Rate, dated September 6, 1963, after his trip to Granite Peak to install a register box.

"The climb is mostly class 3, with a few short class 4 stretches. The entire route can be climbed without any technical gear in good weather. (But weather in the Beartooths can change very quickly, so don't bank on it).

There are however, at least three places on the climb where a fall is quite possible, and roping and belaying is definitely recommended, from the east of the snow bridge to the top of the peak. An ice ax should be carried to the snow bridge, in order to make a passable tread across the snow. The ax can be left at the snowbridge, and picked up on your return.

In bad weather (wet or snow) both the ascent and descent could be extremely hazardous without ropes. I recommend that even the most experienced climbers have ropes on this trip. During stormy weather, a few carabiners and sling material for rappelling might prove invaluable.

There is virtually no vegetation from Mt. Tempest to Granite Peak. Past visitors have created small tent sites in the col between Tempest and Granite. Experienced climbers should plan for about 3 1/2 hours from the col between Tempest and Granite to the summit, and about 2 hours for the descent." (End of excerpt)

Historical Excerpt #3:

The route described above was followed in 1955 by Thad Lowary, Forest Service, Missoula; James Stephenson, Forest Service, Livingston; and Edward Slusher, Forest Service, Nye. Much of the description was taken from George Forney's report after his climb in 1953. He was accompanied by L.B. Beckham of the Survey, and Vern W. Waples of the Montana Fish and Game.

"DESCRIPTION OF ROUTE TO THE TOP OF GRANITE PEAK: Granite Peak is located at the southwest end of the ridge between East Rosebud and West Rosebud drainages. The point of departure on this ridge can be reached from either drainage.

From East Rosebud take the trail up Phantom Creek to the top of the ridge.

From West Rosebud, take the trail from the Power Plant to the lower end of Mystic Lake. Near the lower end of Mystic Lake, the trail heads south toward the top of the ridge. Follow this to the top of the ridge. Both trails are good and are built on easy grades.

The ridge between the two Rosebuds is narrow where on comes out on top. The trails join in this narrow saddle. Leave the trail at the top of this ridge and head southwest on the plateau.

Follow the plateau to the southwest, staying on the northwest side of the top of the main ridge. Be careful of soft spots that will bog a horse down -- most dangerous are the yellow-brown, gravely spots below melting snowdrifts. In these wet spots the ground that is covered with sod is the safest going.

With reasonable care one can ride and take pack animals to the point where it is plain the plateau follows a north-south direction. This is about 2 1/2 miles from where on left the trail. Part of this 2 1/2 miles is monumented with small piles of rock, or one rock placed on top of another. Going is difficult for animals beyond this point because of large boulders.

Go on foot from point where the ridge turns to south, cross over bridge and to the head of a side drainage into Phantom Creek. This is the best campsite in the area, as there is some protection from the wind, and there is running water. Landmarks are a rectangular boulder 3 feet above the ground, and a snowdrift 100 feet to 200 feet in length, depending on weather factors and the time of year. There is no wood or grass available. If tent poles are needed they must be packed in from timberline on the Mystic Lake or Phantom Creek trails.

A full day should be allowed for this part of the trip, either from East or West Rosebud.

Looking south from the campsite, one will see a small top about 1500 feet distant. This is east of the main ridge. Travel southwest staying to the northwest of this top, to the saddle on the main ridge north of Tempest Mountain.

From this saddle head for the low saddle (col) between Tempest and Granite. On this route pass through the small saddle in a rocky ridge running west from the top of Tempest. After passing through this small saddle proceed on down to the low saddle between Tempest and Granite. Cross to the southeast side of this saddle and head up the east side of Granite toward the juncture of the main ridge (the one just crossed over in the saddle) and the first ridge coming into it from the south.

Near the juncture of these ridges cross over to the west side and travel around south side of Granite to a snow bridge. This bridge is sometimes very sharp edged and may need to be widened out with an ice axe for safe crossing. If the party has not roped up, they should do so before crossing the snowbridge.

Cross the snowbridge and bear left on the south side returning to the top of main ride as soon as possible. Here a passable route on the north face should be seen. Follow it for short distance and return to top of main ridge. Both of these routes are short, perhaps 30 to 40 feet each, and one should be back on top of main ridge shortly after crossing snowbridge.

Cross to the south side of the main ridge and work to small V opening in the next ridge coming in from the south. There is a route due west of the V to a similar V in the next ridge - it appears almost in trail form. Drop down and climb up to this next V. Stop here and size up the route from here on. One is looking directly into the face of the peak.

The next ridge west which comes in from the south goes to the top of the peak. The side of the ridge facing one is steep and rather smooth. There is a drain at the foot of this ridge and at the upper end of the drain, a crevice running up to the foot of this ridge and at the upper end of the drain, a crevice running up to the top of the ridge. Near the top of this ridge and the peak, one will see a large flat boulder bridged across others with a skylined hole beneath it. This boulder is steeply inclined to the southwest. Just left of this skylined boulder is the crevice from the bottom of the drain mentioned above.

The route should take one into this crevice about halfway up its height. After sizing up these landmarks, climb up and to the west to a large ledge which ends about 50 feet short of the drain. After one gets on this ledge, you should turn and face the more or less vertical face of the peak.

On the right will be a vertical crack which forms a very narrow ledge no wider than ones foot. Follow this one to another similar ledge, both are about 15 feet long. Then climb directly up the face of the peak. This is the most difficult part of the climb.

There is an almost vertical fissure or crevice about 30 feet in height which was ascended by the ones who prepared this route description. It was the only route evident at the time, but there may be an easier way.

Upon reaching the first good ledge, turn west and head for the crevice referred to above - the one that goes from the drain to the top of the ridge near the skylined boulder. Go up this crevice to the top of the ridge near the skylined boulder. One is now about 20 feet below the top, and 100 feet south. The rest is easy.

The best time of year for this climb seems to be between the first and middle of August. Lightning, rain, hail, sleet, and snowstorms are frequent, even at that time of year. An adequate camp for 2 or 3 days should be taken in, as one may be held in camp for a day or so before being able to make the climb.

One should have adequate footwear and a good rope. There should be at least 3 in a climbing party and they should rope together before crossing the snowbridge. At least one in the party should have had some mountain climbing experience and should teach the others in the party the necessary techniques. The necessary tools for scribing ones initials are on top of the peak. There is also a brass tube inside a cairn or rocks for leaving ones name." (end of excerpt)

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