Climbing Mount St. Helens
Mount St. Helens Climbing
Update
[Last Updated: 19
November 2009]
Winter Climbing
Access: Winter snowfall
and wind forms large, unstable cornices (snow overhangs) on the crater rim
(please see our climbing
page and scroll down to cornice photo). The crater
rim is unstable and can be hazardous at any time.
Attention
Climbers:
-
We are
currently recommending that climbers use the winter climbing route out
of the Marble Mountain Sno-Park.
-
Forest Road
830 to Climber's
Bivouac is closed due to snow. Forest Roads 83 and 81 are open
and with patchy snow. Chains or 4x4 are currently recommended.
-
Climbing
Permits are required above 4800 foot elevation on
the volcano year round.
-
Climbers
and Snowmobiles are required to have a permit if traveling above 4800
ft.
-
November
1 thru March 31- Permits are free of charge and self issue at the Climbing
Registers. Permits for the 2010 climbing season, beginning
April 1, 2010, go on sale February 2, 2010 and are sold online, in-advance
on a first-come, first-served basis through the Mount
St. Helens Institute.
-
The
Climber's Registers are located at the Lone Fir Resort,
16806 Lewis River Road, Cougar, WA. (360) 238-5210 and at the Marble
Mountain Sno-Park.
Climbing Details
Climbing Home
Climbing Safety
Current Conditions
Before Climbing
Permit System
Additional
The Mount St. Helens Ten Essentials
![[ USGS Photo ] Aerial view Mount St. Helens from Spirit
Lake - June 29, 2006.](global/images/20060629-msh-from-spirit-lake-usgs.jpg)
(USGS Photo
- Aerial view Mount St. Helens from Spirit Lake - June 29, 2006.)
If you already climb and hike,
you already know about the Ten Essentials. Never
leave the trailhead without them! Below is the Mount St. Helens
Ten Essentials. (Yes, we know there are more than ten.)
The most important thing to
carry with you is your good judgement, but all climbers should carry:
- Climbing Helmet or Hard Hat - Protect your head in
the event of volcanic ballistics or rock fall.
- Dust Mask (N95 type) - Cover your mouth and nose
in the event of ashfall or blowing dust. Dust Masks (N95 type) should
be available from any large hardware store.
- Goggles or Sunglasses with Side Shields, Sunscreen
- The Sun reflecting off of snow and ash is intense. Avoid contact lenses,
as blowing ash and dust can be a problem. And don't forget a hat.
- Climbing Boots - Sturdy, comfortable hiking boots
and gaiters to keep out snow and ash.
- Map, Compass, Route Markers - Use them to know where
you are and where you are going. Be sure to tell someone at home of
your plans.
- First Aid Kit - You may need to come to your own
rescue, or help someone else. Be prepared!
- Knife - Handy for all kinds of purposes, especially
the type with extra tools.
- Extra Food and Water - Bring at least two quarts
of water per person. No water is available at Climbers Bivouac or on
the climbing route. Carry plenty of food to snack on all day. Reduce
packaging to eliminate trash.
- Extra Clothing - A beautiful sunny morning can turn
into a cold rainy afternoon. Plan ahead! Layered clothing including
full rain gear, gloves and hat. Layering allows you to adjust your clothing
to different exertion levels and weather.
- Emergency signal device
- Emergency Shelter - Yes, you planned to be out on
one very long day. Be prepared just in case that longer day turns into
something much longer.
- Flashlight, extra batteries, and bulb - A necessity
when the day is short and the trail is long.
Do Not Rely On Your Cell Phone
In A Climbing Emergency!
Mount St. Helens is located in a remote area of
southwestern Washington State. There are no cell phone towers within the
Monument or the Gifford Pinchot National Forest surrounding the Monument.
Even at altitude, reception may or may not work, depending upon the time
of day, your physical location on the volcano, variable weather conditions,
even the cell phone network you use. Do not rely on your cell
phone in an emergency while climbing Mount St. Helens. Climbers are cautioned
not to substitute a cell phone for adequate preparedness, such as carrying
the Ten Essentials, and signing in and out at the Climber's Register before
and after your climb.. Also be sure to tell a friend or
relative where you are going and check in with them you
return. Having someone that will notify authorities if you don't
return can help get you the assistance you need when you need it most.
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